Do I fill gaps between plywood underplayment sheets for vinyl tile?

drj @drj

May 2021 8 76 Report

Do I fill gaps between plywood underplayment sheets for vinyl tile?

Armstrong Vinyl tile (not peel and stick, i have to glue it down).

I've left 1/8 to 1/4 gaps between plywood sheets...

Do I fill those gaps with caulk or wood filler? Do I just leave them alone?

Thanks for your help, guys and gals--

Update:

Why did I leave these gaps?? Because the 5 different construction people that I asked all told me different things and I went with the average answer is why.

I don't get why every single project I do around here, I have 20 people tell me to do it one way, then once I DO it, 20 more people say "WHY DID YOU DO IT THAT WAY????"

I'm starting to suspect no one knows what the **** they're talking about but everyone wants people to think they do. I know, I know-- "20 + years experience in construction" -- just the like the 10 other dudes the told me the exact opposite thing. I guess I just roll the dice and do whatever, cos nobody knows!!!!

Home & Garden / Do It Yourself (DIY)

Anonymous

Verified answer

You must have had some very weird luck to find 5 'advisors' that all told you to leave a gap. I don't know anyone that would do or say that.

Ask what to fill them with at the local flooring store (there'll be different products around the country). And welcome to the learning curve. A hundred more floors and you can hang out your flooring shingle.

Bill

You'll want to fill any cracks, voids, imperfections of any kind with floor leveler. It is available in Home Depot or Lowes or many other places. Any imperfection will transfer through the tile. Mix up a small batch because it hardens quickly.

Additional info-

You did nothing wrong by having some gaps. When laying underlayment you always have gaps. If you were to cut every board exactly perfect you would be there for weeks. You get them as close as you can and smooth out any imperfections and nail/screw heads with floor leveler.

Beverly

Yes you can do that. Remove the baseboards before you clean the exsisting surface with a good all purpose cleaner. Then go ahead and give it a good once-over with some degreaser. After you get the new flooring down run a bead of calking on the back side of the base boards before you re install them. Go for it.

I can appreciate your frustration. I went through the same thing trying to find out why drains are sloped 1/4" per foot.

Anyway, you should not have left gaps. Gaps in flooring are usually made where the floor meets a wall, to allow for expansion and contraction with temperature. Looking at the floor as a solid unit, there should be no gaps in it.

You need to fill in those gaps with something rigid, yet flexible. If I was in your position, I would open the gaps in the underlayment to 1/2", using a circular saw set to the correct depth. Next, I would cut 1/2" strips of the same plywood you used as the underlayment, glue and nail them into place. I would also recommend a sanding of the joints to make sure all of them are flush. Any peaks and valleys in the underlayment will be transferred to the VCT (vinyl composite tile).

If you're meticulous and take your time to do a good job, your floor will look good and you won't have to do this again.

I've been in your position many times when asking questions of "professionals". When someone gives me an answer, I always ask them why it's the way they say it is. If they brush you off with some comment like "It's code.", or "That's the way it's done.", find someone else. I went through seven plumbers before one actually gave me the reason why drains are sloped 1/4" per foot.

Trust your gut when fishing for info.

You should use a product called Dash Patch available at select Home Depot's. They will have other brands of floor patching materials if not Dash Patch. It may take more than one coat to completely seal the gaps, and the end result is you want the gaps to be as close to even with the edges as you can get. You don't want to create a hump either, so mix enough to put a coat in the cracks first across the narrow parts and then finish the joint by running along the long part. Follow the directions on the package as far as time in between coats. Use a stiff 2-3 inch metal putty knife so you get a clean edge, remove the material at an angle so the final coat is smooth and even. Wait at least a day before applying the adhesive and tile. Be sure to use the correct size trowel notch for your tile. I usually use 1/16" teeth trowel. Snap your lines for starting, apply the adhesive, wait until the adhesive is tacky when you touch it but doesn't come off on your fingertips. Apply the tile and force down well into the adhesive. You will be fine no matter you are starting off with filler, most floors need some dash patch on the seems. Be sure your nail/screw heads are all even with the finished floor to avoid little round spots in the finished tile.